is the proverbial head of China
’s dragon, roaring and massive. With a population that tops 24 million, China’s largest cosmopolis rivals any other. The city’s mutable spirit is reflected in ancient temples, the colonial architecture of the Bund and the former French Concession, futuristic skyscrapers in Pudong, and a vibrant art scene that has blossomed in abandoned buildings and manufacturing wastelands. A once-industrial strip of the Huangpu River has been transformed into the Shanghai Corniche, a waterfront park and promenade stretching to the Bund, and the West Bund Culture Corridor. There, the Long Museum
showcases part of China’s largest private art collection in a facility built around a revamped coal hopper (that attracts a constant stream of selfie-taking influencers), while the Yuz Museum
, founded by another billionaire collector, occupies a converted airplane hangar. The Power Station of Art
, China’s first state-run contemporary art museum, is housed in a decommissioned power plant (where Shanghai’s most recent biennale took place). And opening this year are the Centre Pompidou Shanghai, in the West Bund Art Museum
, and Tank Shanghai
, an arts-and-recreation complex that incorporates giant repurposed oil tanks.