Virtuoso Life May 2019 5 Seafood Restaurants Shifting the Focus to Sustainability

5 Seafood Restaurants Shifting the Focus to Sustainability

Fort Lauderdale
Former Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi chef Edgar Beas has moved from Santa Fe to Dune, which draws inspiration from its beachfront setting in dishes such as raw-bar yellowfin crudo with pomelo, mango, and avocado, and octopus a la plancha with sofrito. A charcoal oven turns out succulent whole roasted branzino, with eye candy on the side: ocean views from inside the glass-walled dining room and on the expansive terrace.
Dune’s private tasting room.
Dune’s private tasting room.
Photo by Dune
New Orleans
Long a private chef for Will and Jada Pinkett Smith and other A-listers, Marlon Alexander goes public with Cru in the Creole-accented Marigny neighborhood. Fish, shrimp, and other seafood get the Southern treatment in dishes such as pecan-smoked trout dip, fish and grits, and pappardelle with mussels. Enjoy crab cakes with a side of sass during Sunday’s colorful drag-queen-hosted brunch.
Lobster ceviche at Cru. 
Lobster ceviche at Cru. 
Photo by Randy P. Schmidt
San Francisco
Chef Joshua Skenes of the three-Michelin-starred Saison baits seafood lovers at Angler on the Embarcadero waterfront. Views of San Francisco Bay serve as a backdrop for elegant dishes issued from a 32-foot, wood-burning hearth. Local fishermen and foragers provide spot prawns and purple sea urchin, California king crab and abalone. Expect a Los Angeles spin-off soon, and a suburban Seattle locale to land in 2021.
Angler’s open kitchen.
Angler’s open kitchen.
Photo by Angler
Tucson
The Flores clan, which operates El Charro, the oldest family-run Mexican restaurant in the country, aims to make a case for the bounty of the Sea of Cortés with its new Charro del Rey. Line up for classic ceviches, seafood cocktails, and branzino Veracruz, as well as inventive hybrids, such as tamale-stuffed lobster.
Charro del Rey. 
Charro del Rey. 
Photo by Charro del Rey
Washington, D.C.
In an 1890s stone and heart pine warehouse overlooking Georgetown’s C&O Canal, Dyllan’s Raw Bar Grill divides its focus between oysters, sushi rolls, and other uncooked items and tinned seafood, including Portuguese cockles and Galician mussels at the bar. The omnivore-enticing grill turns out delicious lime- glazed salmon, cioppino, and seared Arctic char (as well as steaks and chops).
Oysters at Dyllan’s.
Oysters at Dyllan’s.
Photo by Timothy M. Yantz

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